Glycolic Acid
A small-molecule alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane that dissolves bonds between dead skin cells to reveal fresher skin.
Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which means it penetrates the outer skin layers more readily than its relatives like lactic or mandelic acid. It belongs to the chemical exfoliant family and is typically derived from sugar cane, though most cosmetic-grade glycolic acid is synthetically produced for consistency and purity.
Its mechanism is straightforward: glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds (corneodesmosomes) that hold dead surface cells together. This encourages those spent cells to shed more evenly, supporting natural cell turnover. At lower concentrations (around 5–10%), it's commonly found in daily-use serums, toners, and moisturisers. Higher concentrations (above 20%) are generally reserved for professional-grade treatments. The acid also has humectant properties, meaning it can help draw moisture into the upper layers of skin. Its effectiveness is influenced by the product's pH, with a range of roughly 3–4 being the sweet spot for exfoliation without unnecessary irritation.
For shoppers, glycolic acid is worth considering if you're looking to improve uneven skin texture, support a brighter-looking complexion, or address surface-level dullness. It pairs well with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which can help offset any dryness from exfoliation. However, avoid layering it with other potent actives like retinol or vitamin C in the same routine step, as this can overwhelm the skin barrier. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day when incorporating glycolic acid, because freshly exfoliated skin is more susceptible to UV damage.
Honest caveats: glycolic acid is not a miracle worker and it won't restructure deep scarring or replace professional treatments. If you have very reactive or sensitive skin, a gentler AHA like mandelic acid might be a better starting point. When you're starting out, patch test first, then begin with a lower concentration a few times a week and build up gradually with patience. If you experience persistent redness, stinging, or peeling beyond the initial adjustment period, consider speaking to a skincare professional to find the right approach for your skin.
Its mechanism is straightforward: glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds (corneodesmosomes) that hold dead surface cells together. This encourages those spent cells to shed more evenly, supporting natural cell turnover. At lower concentrations (around 5–10%), it's commonly found in daily-use serums, toners, and moisturisers. Higher concentrations (above 20%) are generally reserved for professional-grade treatments. The acid also has humectant properties, meaning it can help draw moisture into the upper layers of skin. Its effectiveness is influenced by the product's pH, with a range of roughly 3–4 being the sweet spot for exfoliation without unnecessary irritation.
For shoppers, glycolic acid is worth considering if you're looking to improve uneven skin texture, support a brighter-looking complexion, or address surface-level dullness. It pairs well with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which can help offset any dryness from exfoliation. However, avoid layering it with other potent actives like retinol or vitamin C in the same routine step, as this can overwhelm the skin barrier. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day when incorporating glycolic acid, because freshly exfoliated skin is more susceptible to UV damage.
Honest caveats: glycolic acid is not a miracle worker and it won't restructure deep scarring or replace professional treatments. If you have very reactive or sensitive skin, a gentler AHA like mandelic acid might be a better starting point. When you're starting out, patch test first, then begin with a lower concentration a few times a week and build up gradually with patience. If you experience persistent redness, stinging, or peeling beyond the initial adjustment period, consider speaking to a skincare professional to find the right approach for your skin.
